If you skip this step, it can lead to BIG problems down the road with buckling and gaps. I was so ready to get started, but I also knew I wanted to do it right. So I waited and passed the time dreaming about the gorgeous floors that would soon be underfoot. We started with ripping out all the carpet from the entire second story, removing the tack strip, and evening out any really noticeable dips or high spots. We also opted to remove all the baseboards, mostly because they were comically small.
Even if a huge renovation like this sounds daunting, demolition is pretty easy, and something you can definitely DIY to save a ton of money. We did run into one other issue with our baseboards — they were not only nailed in with some big mama nails , but glued in too. You can see how much we struggled to remove them in the picture above — they just splintered and did NOT want to come off the wall. We ended up using a multi-tool to cut them away from the wall the caulk was REAL, guys , and then used a pry bar to separate them fully.
Brute force was pretty much the only way, and while it did mean we had to repair some drywall, it was worth it in the end. The only other preparation was to cut down all the door jambs.
We just used a piece of our new flooring to mark on each door jamb what we needed to remove, and cut that bit away. A multi-tool made quick work of it, and is absolutely the right tool for the job, though technically you could also do it with a hammer and a chisel. After we prepared our subfloors, removed the baseboards, and took care of the door jambs, it was time to roll out the underlayment.
Typically, underlayment provides a barrier and helps even out the subfloor and create a softer, quieter feeling underfoot. The salesman at Lumber Liquidators recommended we use something called Insulayment, but I would advise against it if you have a home similar to ours. Generally speaking, the thicker and more expensive the underlayment is, the quieter and cushier your floor will feel.
In those cases where moisture levels have been tested and they are not a concern, TEC offers two additional products: Wood Go and Wood Ready. Wood Go offers an added benefit for improved acoustics and sound deadening. This can be preferable where engineered hardwood flooring is installed over plywood, often in residential installations.
Wood Ready is specially formulated for the challenges of engineered wood flooring. After inspecting your boards and removing any defective ones, plan on following a running bond pattern of the grain.
Remember to leave expansion gaps between the flooring and wall. Installing engineered hardwood flooring over concrete too tight against a stationary object will not allow room for normal expansion and may cause a failure. Consult the product data sheet for instructions regarding specific trowel requirements. In general, use a notched trowel to spread the adhesive. Pass the trowel through the glue at a degree angle and install hardwood flooring immediately after the adhesive is spread.
For a quieter hardwood, choose oak or walnut, and for even better sound absorption, look toward denser hardwoods like mahogany or Brazilian cherry. Adding fabric rugs and runners will go a long way toward eliminating the sounds of footsteps on hardwood floors overhead.
They have the added benefit of protecting hardwood surfaces against wear and tear. Many homeowners have a shoe-free policy. Removing outdoor footwear at the front door keeps homes cleaner, reducing the frequency of sweeping and mopping. But it also makes for a quieter home, reducing the sound within and between rooms. Building or buying an attractive shoe storage unit and providing slippers are two ways to encourage guests and residents alike to drop their shoes at the door.
Actively scan device characteristics for identification. Use precise geolocation data. Select personalised content. Create a personalised content profile. Measure ad performance. Select basic ads. Some manufacturers suggest removing the boards from the packaging. None advise against it.
Racking is a term defined as the laying out of the floorboards in advance of the actual installation. Racking a floor also allows for any defective pieces to be withheld for return to the manufacturer. For your concrete slab to function as a subfloor, holes, cracks, and low spots need to be patched. The subfloor also needs to be level for your engineered wood floor to be level.
Before taking on the tasks of patching and leveling, the subfloor must be clean and free of loose debris. Nothing dramatic, but if there are any large, greasy, or oily stains, these could cause loss of adhesion.
Use a degreasing , grill, or oven cleaning type of solution to eliminate them. For holes and large chips in your concrete subfloor, use a self-leveling concrete patching compound. Very carefully follow the instructions on the back of the package. Allow the patching compound to cure completely.
Once the patching compound has cured, use a level to determine if the floor is level. In some cases, the concrete might have several low areas. There might even be a white ring around them.
These areas are also part of the focus of the leveling process. Use a primer and leveling compound to level your concrete floor. As the term suggests, the primer should be applied first as this will ensure adhesion of the leveling compound to the existing concrete.
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